Kosmetik. Toalettsaker

This document specifies an in vitro procedure to characterize the UVA protection of sunscreen products. Specifications are proposed to enable determination of the spectral absorbance characteristics of UVA protection in a reproducible manner.

In order to determine relevant UVA protection parameters, the method has been created to provide an UV spectral absorbance curve from which a number of calculations and evaluations can be undertaken. Results from this measurement procedure can be used for other computations, as required by local regulatory authorities. These include calculation of the Ultraviolet-A protection factor (UVA-PF) [correlating with in vivo UVA-PF from the persistent pigment darkening (PPD) testing procedure], critical wavelength and UVA absorbance proportionality. These computations are optional and relate to local sunscreen product labelling requirements. This method relies on the use of static in vivo SPF results for scaling the UV absorbance curve.

This document is not applicable to powder products such as pressed powder and loose powder products.

The aim of this standard is to provide a method of quantification of heavy metal trace elements in cosmetic products that consumers might be exposed to in their usage. In the sample preparation procedure, nitric acid/hydrochloric acid mixture is used and most of the cosmetic ingredients are digested allowing heavy metal trace elements to be solubilized for measurement. Some cosmetic inorganic ingredients such as silica or titanium dioxide might not be completely digested under the conditions of this standard and heavy metal trace elements confined in such ingredients might not be fully extracted. However, the heavy metal trace elements trapped in these inorganic materials are considered less relevant for the evaluation of the exposure level of consumers to unwanted trace elements. The use of ICP-MS ensures reliable measurement of trace elements due to its proven high sensitivity and selectivity.

This analytical methodology can be applied to many other elements but this standard refers only to the above listed trace elements and it is to the responsibility of the analyst to prove that it fits for that purpose. In order to obtain comparable results, it is absolutely mandatory to comply with all the conditions linked to the digestion of the samples.